554 THE ADVOCATE
VOL. 78 PART 4 JULY 2020
per cent alcohol. Just slightly off-dry, it has a bit of “old world” appeal, reminiscent
of wines of the Eger region of Hungary, where Muscat varieties
play a significant part in its famous Egri Csillag white. The colour is a very
pale yellow, and the wine has aromas of yeasty bread with orange blossom,
lemon curd and white peach, with flavours of lemon and orange zest, peach
and red apple. Being Muscat, it is not overly acidic and has an almost ciderlike
mouthfeel. It will pair well with soft cheeses like Brie or Camembert
with fresh fruit for an afternoon snack. It is available from the winery
online, or at private wine stores, including BC VQA stores.
And next some age-worthy whites and reds under traditional cork.
BARONE DI VALFORTE PECORINO ABRUZZO 2018
DOC Pecorino, Italy #122867 $17.99
The Sorricchio family has owned the baronial fief of Valforte since the 13th
century, and their vineyard lies within the DOCG Colline Teramane area of
Abruzzo. This wine is from the lesser-known Pecorino grape and was grown
on north-facing and hence cooler calcareous soils in Piomba and Colle Sale.
Pecorino is a light-skinned wine grape used in Italy’s eastern coastal
regions, particularly in Marche and Abruzzo. A classic Pecorino-based wine
is dry and minerally, is straw-yellow in color and has a floral bouquet,
sometimes spiced with a faint hint of licorice.
This version matches much of that description. A pale straw colour, it has
aromas of stone fruit (peach and apricot), wet stone and flowers (honeysuckle
and blossoms). Flavours on its dry but tart and vibrant palate are of
lemon-lime, slightly unripe white peach and green pear, with streaks of
minerality and a long, tart finish. Anthony Gismondi has given it a 90-point
rating that it well deserves. While highly drinkable now, it has the ability to
grow in honeyed complexity with aging. Try it with raw seafood, like
ceviche or sashimi, or fish dishes with light sauces. It will also go well with
creamy pasta dishes. It is available online periodically through Vivino or
from its distributor, Enoteca Bacco.6 It is worth making an order.
DA SILVA VINEYARDS CHENIN BLANC MUSCAT 2017
Okanagan Valley, B.C. $22.00
The grapes are from the winery’s own vineyard, Hidden Hollow. It is eighty
per cent Chenin Blanc and twenty per cent Muscat (most likely Muscat
Ottonel). Many white Bordeaux producers add small amounts of Muscat to
their blends (the main grapes being Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon), but this
blend is unusual, though in this example works well, cutting some of the