THE ADVOCATE 385
VOL. 77 PART 3 MAY 2019
graphite, black tea, a bit of saddle leather and cigar. It has a long, slightly
dusty, and acidic finish that needs a bit of taming with food. Go for steak
with mushrooms or blue cheese, or a rack of lamb.
GARZÓN CABERNET FRANC TANNAT 2015
Maldonado, Uruguay #832774 $19.99
The mix is eighty percent Cab Franc and twenty percent Tannat, and the
wine is fermented in stainless steel, then aged for a few months in French
oak. The nose is full of red and black fruit, including black currant, red
plum and raspberry mellowed with notes of vanilla and a streak of cedar.
The flavours are a mix of rich but tart fruit including black cherry, black
currant, baked plum and some spicy Mexican chocolate, mixed with some
subtle earthy mushroom that gives it a long, slightly smoky finish. Pair it
with a BBQ-roasted chicken stuffed with fresh herbs and mushroom risotto,
or BBQ ribs, or, being a South American wine, a hanger steak with
Chimichurri. If you enjoy that Tannat twist, try their single varietal Tannat,
also available at the BCLDB. You won’t be sorry.
PAOLO LEO 2016
DOP Salice Salentino, Puglia, Italy #126312 $18.99
Salice Salentino is located in the southern part of Apulia. Feudo Paolo Leo
traces its origins back to the turn of the 20th century when Antonio Leo
began making wine from grapes grown on his estate named Masseria Monticello.
On inheriting the vineyards, his grandson, Paolo Leo, built his own
winery in the small town of San Donaci in Salento. Today the company is
owned by another Paolo Leo, the fifth generation of the family to do so. I
say all this as the wine is outstanding for the price. It is eighty percent
Negroamaro and twenty percent Malvasia Nera di Lecca, both of which are
local Puglian grape varieties, and it was fermented in stainless steel, followed
by six months in oak casks and another six in bottle before release.
The aromas are bright red currant, baked red plum and raspberry, mixed
with notes of green tea and leather. The flavours are a mix of stewed cherry
and raspberry, with cassis and red plum, overlaid with vanilla, tobacco and
licorice. The finish is full, long and well balanced with bright but mellow
tannins. The winery suggests pairing it with “roasted meats and cheeses”
(arrosti di carne e formaggi). It will also go well with a summer charcuterie,
or as we had it, with a pasta loaded with veggies in a meat sauce, or perhaps
pizza made on the BBQ.