THE ADVOCATE 553
VOL. 77 PART 4 JULY 2019
Controlée for all vineyards, and those designated Alsace Grand Cru, of which
there are 25 in the 1983 classification and 25 in the 1993 classification.
Contrast this with the Rieslings of Germany, where Riesling is king, but
where the style of the wine reflects the region from which it hails. Fine
Rieslings come from the Mosel, the Rheingau and the Rheinhessen. The
Germans also rank their wines into categories based on quality, which, in
ascending order, are as follows: Tafelwein (table wine), Landwein (country
wine), Qualitätswein (quality wine from defined regions) and Prädikatswein
(wine with a distinction). The distinctions are Kabinett (cabinet), Spätlese
(late harvest), Auslese (select harvest), Beerenauslese (select berry harvest),
Trockenbeerenauslese (select dried berry harvest) and Eiswein (ice wine). You
will be quizzed on this later.
When you buy Riesling at your wine shop, look carefully for the sweetness
code or ask your friendly wine merchant for help, because Rieslings
can range from dry to off-dry to very sweet, and the label will not tell you
this. And they all come in the characteristic tall, slim bottle.
The Alsatian wine maker Hugel makes wonderful Rieslings at a variety of
price points. In our wine stores you can purchase the 2011 Hugel Riesling
Grossi Laue for $116 (which in the Alsace dialect is equivalent to Grand
Cru). This is an aromatic, off-dry wine that is easy to pair with any food.
A good choice is the 2017 Culmina “Decora” Riesling, for $21. The Triggs
family brings you the “culmination” of their experience in their Culmina
line of wines from the Okanagan. The Decora Riesling is very pale in the
glass, with notes of lemon zest, apricot and pear on the nose. It is tart and
tangy in the mouth and followed by a long, lingering finish of pineapple.
This is a very dry wine with just a little sweetness at the back end. It would
pair well with Asian food but would also be perfect to cut the butteriness of
seafood dishes like scallops, crab or lobster.
OTHER WHITE WINES YOU SHOULD TRY
There are dozens of other white varieties that are worth drinking and writing
about. In Italy alone, there are wonderful white wines made from
Arneis, Falanghina, Fiano, Friulano, Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano,
Verdicchio, Vernaccia and, of course, Vermentino, each of which could
merit its own tasting.
But most of these wines do not have a “high” version available in our
stores, and so we close by offering three choices of affordable wines that
you should consider on your next trip to the wine shop.