THE ADVOCATE V O L . 7 6 P A R T 5 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 8 693
PASIÓN DE BOBAL ROSÉ 2017
D.O.C. Protegida, Spain #792317 $18.99
A pale salmon in colour, it has intense aromas of red currant, rhubarb and
cranberry, with notes of rose petal and mineral. On the dry, light palate it
is very well balanced with a fresh, tart acidity. It is versatile, both as a
refreshing aperitif and, like most rosés, pairing with a wide variety of
dishes, including salads or starters, white meats, grilled meats or ham or
other cured meats. It will also go well with cold or grilled fish.
JUSTINA DE MOYA BOBAL 2016
D.O.C. Valencia, Spain $18.99
This red wine version is predominantly Bobal with a little bit of Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon. It comes from Bodega De Moyal, operated by Belgian
businessman Yves Laurijssens, who was lured by the romance of winemaking
into moving to the mountains near Valencia to make old vines Bobal.
Lightly oaked, this wine is an inky purple in colour, with a nose displaying
plum, black currant, blackberry and a bit of smoke. On the palate are black
cherry, cassis, some spice and a bit of leather and ash. It has good acidity
on its medium finish. Try it with pasta and tomato sauce, or some tomatobased
tapas. BBQ meats are another idea. Look for it in private wine stores.
A fact many find surprising is that nearly all red grapes have white flesh
and juice. It is only with extended contact with the skins that they develop
their colour and red wine characteristics. But there are a few exceptions.
They are commonly known as teinturiers in French or tintorera in Spanish,
a wine term applied to grapes whose flesh and juice are both red in colour
due to anthocyanin pigments accumulating within the pulp of the grape
berry itself. Many winemakers blend small volumes of teinturier juices into
their wines to boost the colour without dramatically affecting the taste. The
most commonly used are Alicante Bouschet in France and Portugal, and
Dunkelfelder in Germany. Dr. Almos also developed a teinturier called
Rubired. While still commonly found in blends, a few winemakers are doing
single varietals of Alicante and Dunkelfelder. One I have enjoyed (but cannot
find in B.C. right now) is Rare Vineyards Alicante Bouschet 2016
(SKU#762609) from Languedoc. If you see it on a restaurant list and want a
good pairing for a steak or grilled pork dish, try it. For now, all I could locate
were some blends from Spain (where it is called Garnacha Tintorera), Portugal
and California. The blend featured here is one of the best.