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May Advocate 2017

350 V O L . 7 5 P A R T 3 M A Y 2 0 1 7 THE ADVOCATE Bruce’s climb up the Articling Blues Buttress on Wahoo Tower (2846 m), near the glacial headwaters of the Lillooet River, during his articles in 1986, has a special legal connection, apparent from the name. The ski plane pilot disregarded the group’s instructions to land on the high icefield at the base of Wahoo and instead landed on the lower glacier in a crevasse field. The tail ski (one of three) broke off. The pilot refused to come back for the climbers. Bruce had only 24 hours to get back to Vancouver from the heart of the Coast Mountains, or else be late for work. Amazingly, the group made it: after two major river crossings they arrived at the Lillooet logging camp, where one of the party telephoned his former Scout leader, who drove through the night to pick them up and return them in time for Bruce to report to his desk at Richards Buell Sutton. Patrick Dearden and Gerry Kent, who share a law office in Cranbrook, were some of the first climbers to make solo ascents of Mount Robson (3959 m).51 In 1972 Pat made the first solo climb of that glorious peak via the Kain Face. Pat trained Canadian Armed Forces in mountain skills in the 1970s. In 1973 he rescued a British climber on the Matterhorn, surviving repeated lightning strikes and a long, cold, stormy night just below the summit in the process. In addition to his 1987 solo Robson ascent, Gerry has also made the arduous climb up the north face of Mount Temple (3544 m),52 and may have been the first to solo all of the peaks at Lake O’Hara: Victoria, Lefroy, Huber, Wiwaxy, Glacier, Yukness, Ringrose, Biddle, Park, Schaeffer, Odaray and Hungabee. Andrew Wilkinson, Q.C., presently the Minister of Advanced Education, is a rara avis in that he is both a physician and a lawyer. He was active in the BCMC in the 1980s and 1990s, and president from 1992 to 1994. Wilkinson led or took part in numerous BCMC trips, both winter and summer, including the peaks and slopes of Mounts Ratney, Mehatl, Baker, Wedge, Ipsoot, Joffre, Overseer and Cayoosh. He repeatedly disemboweled his Volkswagen Jetta getting to and from these mountains. Wilkinson was succeeded as BCMC president (1994–1998) by author Anders Ourom, a pioneering specialist in advising societies, charities, cooperatives and other not-for-profits. He started climbing at an early age: his parents were both BCMC members, his Scout leader was Bruce Fairley, and he articled for Dave Nicol, long after they had started climbing together. He is best known for his technical climbs in the Squamish area, with several first ascents and first free ascents:53 among them, Limbo (1976), Seasoned in the Sun and a Question of Balance (1977), Penny Lane (1978), and others. Some of his major mountain routes include the northwest face of Mount Austerity (3337 m) (1972), the north ridge of Sphinx (2402 m) (1973), the


May Advocate 2017
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