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May Advocate 2017

THE ADVOCATE V O L . 7 5 P A R T 3 M A Y 2 0 1 7 347 was a sole practitioner solicitor. The Craigs had a cottage near Hollyburn Lodge, which they delighted to visit.29 He was an honourary member of the BCMC, and its president 1977–1978. He was active from the late 1950s, and his notable climbs include a traverse of the Cheam Range (1961), Mount Waddington (4019 m) (1962: the first BCMC ascent of the highest peak entirely in British Columbia), Mount Zeus (2982 m) in the Pantheon Range near Mount Waddington (1966), an attempt on the north ridge of Mount Logan (5959 m) (1967), and many others. He made the first ever ascent of Metacarpus Peak (2983 m) (1964) (southwest of Taseko Lake), so named as he broke his hand in a fall on that climb. One of his more notable climbs was the first ascent of Mount Kennedy (4250 m) in southwest Yukon, in 1965. It was then the highest unclimbed peak in Canada, and was named after the assassinated U.S. president. A strong U.S. expedition was mounted to climb the cold, snowy, and high, but not overly difficult peak, and Jim was chosen as the Canadian representative. The climbers ensured that Robert Kennedy got to the top, but it was apparently a rather unusual expedition, with many stories that cannot be told. Justice Ralph Hutchinson The most accomplished British Columbia mountaineering jurist was Justice Ralph Maurice James Hutchinson (pronounced ‘Rafe’) (1930 Tanzania–2008 Nanaimo); the leading history of Canadian mountaineering describes him as a “legendary figure”.30 Hutchinson was appointed to the County Court of Prince Rupert in 1980, and in 1991 he became a Supreme Court judge with the merger of the two courts; he retired in 2002.31 He immigrated to British Columbia in 1954 from Kenya via Cambridge and immediately joined the BCMC. The BCMC transformed his life in two ways. A climb of Golden Ears,32 with its vista of unnamed and unclimbed peaks, inspired him. He was also entranced by a fellow BCMC member, Dorothy Johnstone, whom he married in 1957. Hutchinson soon made a name for himself as a climber and adventurer. His annual expeditions included the headwaters of Kwoiek Creek (1958) (west of Boston Bar),33 Mount Raleigh (3132 m) (1959) (between the Toba River and Chilko Lake),34 and the Lillooet Icefield (1960).35 On his Kwoiek Creek expeditions Justice Rafe Hutchinson's last summit, seven months before his death: Mt. Serratus, near Squamish. Photo: Joe Bajan his group made first ascents of Kumkan SE2 (2503 m), Mehatl Peak (2719 m), Kumkan Peak (2742 m), and Tachewana Peak (2482 m).


May Advocate 2017
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