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May Advocate 2017

344 V O L . 7 5 P A R T 3 M A Y 2 0 1 7 THE ADVOCATE of eccentric and difficult County Court judges in Vancouver during the 1950s.”13 Atwell Duncan Francis Joseph King Jr. (1877 Montreal–1947 Victoria),14 one of British Columbia’s most accomplished early mountaineers, was called to the British Columbia bar in April 1914. King served as Deputy Registrar of the Supreme Court of British Columbia and later as in-house solicitor for the British Columbia Electric Railway in Victoria.15 As a law student, he was one of the founding fathers of BCMC and held the initial post of editor; he was later made an honorary member. King gained media attention as part of the first ascent of the West Lion (1654 m), on August 11, 1903. King, accompanied by George Martin and Arthur Tinniswood Dalton, took the Steamship Terminal boat from Vancouver to Hood Point on Bowen Island, and then sailed with the innkeeper across to the east shore of Howe Sound, near present Lions Bay. They then commenced what would have been a shredding bushwhack up to the West Lion, roped together for safety during much of the ascent. King reported to the Vancouver Daily Province that “I have been on Crown Mountain and thought the view from there was exceedingly fine, but the prospect from the Lions is infinitely more magnificent.” The trio marked their triumph by flying a Union Jack from the summit, and leaving a signed note in a bottle, asking the next climbers to return it to Vancouver. The flag and note were found the next month, on September 7th, by William, John, and Robert Latta who proceeded to make the first ascent of the East Lion the next day. King gained further fame for his August 8, 1907 first ascent of Mount Garibaldi (2678 m). His party took the steamship Britannia to Squamish (then known as “Newport”), and then followed the Cheekye River to Garibaldi. They bushwhacked up to Brohm Ridge, and climbed the summit from the north. In his account in the Canadian Alpine Journal, A.T. Dalton described the peak as “some terrible monarch of the skies not to be approached by man”.16 Their trip took eight days in total. King is memorialized in Atwell Peak (2655 m), the prominent pyramidal subpeak of Garibaldi, seen from both Squamish and the popular hike to Elfin Lakes.17 The jagged peak of Mount Cayley (2377 m), between the Cheakamus and Squamish Rivers is on the shortlist of Coast Range volcanic features most likely to erupt. The peak was first climbed in 1928 by friends of the then recently deceased Beverley Cochrane Cayley (1898 Rossland–1928 Vancouver), a young lawyer.18 Cayley was an active member of both the BCMC and the ACC Vancouver section. His significant climbs included one of the first winter ascents of the West Lion (February 1924), and first


May Advocate 2017
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